Tahdig Tutorial

Persians notoriusly fight over the "tahdig" or the crispy yumminess that forms at the bottom of the steamed "polo" or rice. I've had my last piece of tahdig, saving to the end to savor as my last bite, shamelessly swiped from my plate while I was distracted or just too full to be able to react. It is, hands down, the best of part of the Persian meal, where the crispy crust absorbs the flavors of the stews or "khoresht" or enjoying the fried, rice crust plain.

There are three known ways of making tahdig: rice, bread (lahvash or pita), or with thinly sliced potatoes. The method below uses a rice crust, but is the basis for all three and can be modified based on your preference.

A note about Persian polo or "chelo." If you are going to make it, you WILL judged by how good it is. Like making tea, a girl will never be married off unless she knows how to make a good chelo. A Persian grandmother once grabbed a full serving platter of rice and threw it in the garbage after only one bite, declaring that "it was unfit to eat." The rice was fine, but it wasn't basmati and a few grains crumbled. Nonetheless, the hours worth of preparation followed the rice into the trash can.

Use good basmati rice, from a middle eastern or indian market. Pari is popular and is sold in many supermarkets now. Pheel Neshan (with a picture of an elephant) is recommended by my Persian grandmother, and she will use Royal Basmati rice if Pheel Neshan isn't available. It is fragrant and flavorful, essential to Persian chelo.

1 cup of rice is about right for two people. Wash the rice three or four times with warm water until the water is more or less clear. Persian grandmothers soak the rice for at least 30 minutes or so, usually while they are preparing either kabob or the stew (khoresht). Bring a large pot of water to boil(with a dash of salt, some oil, and for Shirazis a squeeze of lime), and par-boil the rice until halfway cooked. Drain the rice in a colander.

Cover the bottom of your quart-size pot with oil and heat slightly. Dissolve a pinch or two of ground saffron (the threads work too, but the ground saffron dissolves completely) in a tablespoon of warm water. Add the saffron water to the warmed oil and swirl around to coat the bottom of the pan with saffron color and oil mixture (including an inch up to the side of the pot). Heat oil until the water begins to pop and oil slightly smokes. Add a thick layer of the par-boiled rice, patting it down slightly so that you create a loose cake of rice. Let the oil cook the rice for 60 seconds or so, and then add the rest of the rice. Cover the pot with either a light rag or a few layers of a paper towels to help seal the lid of the pot. Cover with a tight lid. Cook the rice on medium to low flame for about 20 minutes.

The 20 minutes cook time is such a guesstimate. I know my rice is cooked in two ways. Moisten your finger and press quickly against the side of the pot. If it goes "GEEZ" then the pot is hot enough where the tahdig can form. You should be able to smell the fragrant basmati rice at this point. Before it begins to burn, I might stick a fork through the middle of the rice to see if the crusty rice has formed.

When ready, flip over the chelo in all its glory on your plate and serve with vegan kabob (I know you have been waiting for it! Coming up next!) or your favorite khoresht. Just make sure your little, greedy brother doesn't steal your tahdig ration of your plate as you are stuffing your face with yummy rice and fesenjoon.

NOOSHEH JAN!